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Page 6
| June 2003: (back to top) |
No new progress on the car but I went ahead and map out my oil + fuel system. Most of the parts have already been purchased, see the cost page for more info.
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This weekend I tackled the preliminary alignment of the car. I followed the instructions in the manual. First step is to get the steering rack dead center and to hold it there. Once the rack is center you can cut a small piece of 90 degree aluminum and clamp it to the rack to keep if from moving. The basic idea is to construct a sting box around the car. This is accomplished by first leveling the car, then attaching metal poles to the car. The height of the pole should be set up so the string runs right across the middle of the bolt holding on the hubs. Once the poles are attached and level you just measure out equal distances from the center of the car and run your strings. First step is to take a level and make all the hubs vertically level. After that is done you align the hubs by measuring the distance between the hub surface and the string on both sides of the hub. Once you are satisfied with that you need to go back and make sure the hubs are still vertically level. 2 of mine where no longer level.
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On a side note the aluminum shocks I ordered came in. They where ordered from GAZ.
Fronts open 13" closed 9" stroke 4"
Rears open 14" closed 9.5"stroke 4.5"
Springs front 7" 450 pounds
Springs rear 7" 650 pounds
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I also installed the motor
mount plates that allow you to mount the LS1 in the older 350 location.
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The fuel injectors and rail came in so I bolted that up.
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Finally I modified the stock gauge pod a little to make my autometer
gauges fit. It was just a matter of dremeling off the inner lip. Now the
gauges sit flat on the front of the panel instead of inside the indents
like the factory gauges would have. The angle on the gauges is a little
off now but I don't see it causing any problems.
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The slow month continues. The good new is the machine shop was done with the pulley. They put in the keyway and fabricated a mount for the crank trigger. I am really impressed with their mount. It is much nicer than I expected. You can see where they machined the front of the pulley to be flat. The back side of the mount also has a lip that slides won into the recess in the pulley. Similar to the one you can see on the from to the pulley. To bolt the pulley back on you need some type of special GM fly wheel holder. I didn't have the tool or the flywheel so following the factory instruction on the pulley installment was impossible. Factory says to use the old bolt and torque to approx. 240 ft/lbs. Since I couldn't keep the engine from turning out came the impact gun. I just tightened it up till the crank end was correctly recessed in the pulley. Can't remember the number but it was around 4 mm. Then per the manual you remove the old bolt and install the new one with red lock tight. Torque down to 34 ft/lbs, then turn 170 degrees. Couldn't do the 170-degree thing so I torque to 40 ft/lbs.
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Other project of the weekend was installing the new electric water pump. The unit is from meizer. Hardest part was cleaning off the old gasket. I carefully used a razor blade and scraped it off. I tried my best not to scratch the surface. To help fill in the scratches I used some high temp silicon sealer.
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