I picked up a new 2001 TL1000R in late December 01. This bike is a blast to ride. Definitely feels bigger and heavier than my old 600, but makes up for it in power. I'll never go back to a 4 banger again.
How to's
- Shave the rear fender/license plate holder thing
- Install extreme graphic's hugger
- Air Box modification
- M4 exhaust install
- PCII installation + Map
- TRE installation
- Sheild installation
- Fairing Saver installation
- Dyno results - yosh remap vs PCII map - - PCII Hp vs torque
- Carbon Fiber Parts
- Wreck photos (09/06/03)
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Video and Sound Clips
RearRemoval
Here is what the stock rear looks like. That trailer hitch looking rear is the first thing you need to get rid of.
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The first step is to take a crayon and mark where you are going to cut. With the rear tail still on trace the bottom of the fairing. Next remove the entire rear of the bike and cut about .25 inches above the line you just made. I used and air saw to make the initial cut and then a air drum grinder to smooth it out. When your done you should have something that looks like this.
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Now you can put the trunk back in the bike. Next thing I did same make some aluminum brackets to help hold the tail light in place. I took a piece of aluminum and just bent it until it fit correctly. It bolts to the frame and the tabs on the back of the light.
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Hugger
The first thing you need to do is remove the stock chain guard and mud flap. The mud flap has 2 pieces only one is show in the picture.
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Now test fit the hugger. Move the hugger around until you get an even gap on both sides of the tire. The first hole I drilled was on the right side of the hugger. While holding the hugger in place mark where you are going to drill. I just eye balled it. You want to drill it pretty close to the vertical peice, but remeber to leave enough room for the bolt head. Remove the hugger and drill a test hole with a 3/32 inch bit, this way you can be a little off on the first try. Reinstall the hugger and check the hole alignment. Remove the hugger and drill a 3/8 inch hole. Reinstall the hugger and put the brake line holder bolt back in. Now move the hugger around until the gap between the tire and hugger are equal on both sides. When you find this point mark the front hole on the chain guard.
With the hugger still on drill a hole with a 3/32 inch bit. If your lined up correctly drill a 3/8 inch hole. Place the included lock washer on the front chain gaurd bolt, then put the included flat washer on. You want the flat washer to be the one matking contact with the hugger. Now install the front chain guard bolt. Do not tighten. Now you can move the rear of the hugger up and down a little bit to get the desired clearance between the hugger and tire. Mark the rear hole on the chain guard, I used a nail to scratch the hugger from the back side. Remove the hugger and drill a hole with a 3/32 inch bit. Reinstall the hugger and check your hole for alignment, if your lined up correctly remove the hugger and drill a 3/8 inch hole. Reinstall the hugger. If you want you can take the lower portion of the mud guard that you removed and cut it so it can be reinstalled on the bike.
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I just guessed on the cut, you can't really see it on the bike so it doesn't have to be perfect. You may not need to cut it at all, I would see if it fits with out cutting first. Rebolt up the mud guard and your done. If the hugger rubs the tire your holes may need some adjusting. Another adjustment is to slighly bend the brake bracket towards or away from the tire.
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The hugger was from extreme graphics. Company was a pleasure to deal with and delivery was very quick. Hugger came freshly painted, you could still smell the paint. Paint quality was ok, color match was not the greatest, it is close to suzuki yellow but it is not the factory paint and does not have the metallic flakes in it. Over all quality of the fiber glass was good, it's a decently thick piece. Fit and installation was pretty easy and strait forward. For the price I would definitely recommend it.
AirBox
First remove the seat, upper, and lower fairings. Then remove the steering damper. There is a small cap on top of the allen bolt that holds the steering damper. in place, you can pry it off with a flat head screw driver. Now lift up the gas tank and hold it up with the tank stand. Next Remove the 6 screws that hold on the air box lid. Trace the 2 vacuum lines that go to the actuators back the plastic T and undo them. Next remove the air box lid. Now take a piece of silicon hose (you could use a small section of the stock tubing) and connect it to the T creating a loop.
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Now remove the 5 screws that hold the air filter in place. Now remove the 9 screws that hold the base plate in place. With the base plate out, cut along the yellow lines. I used a dremel tool with a cutting disk to make the initial cuts. Then I used a drum sander to smooth out the cut. When cutting be sure not to cut off the 2 screw holders or damage the channel that runs along the bottom of the base plate to seal it to the air box.
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Now take the air box lid and remove the actuators by first disconnecting the metal bars from the flappers, then twisting them. You can also remove the flappers themselves on the inside by prying off the caps on one side and sliding out the flapper piece. To seal the hole left by the actuators I used to squares of stainless steal I had laying around from a fog light kit. I put a line of black silicon sealant down around the actuator hole and then pop riveted the metal plates into place.
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To make sure the box was sealed totally I covered the entire plate inside and out with silicon.
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Next reinstall the air filter base plate (9 screws). Then put the air filter back in, at this point I replaced mine with a K & N filter. Put the 5 filter bolts in place. Next put the air box lid back on and securely fasten the 6 screws. Now you can lower the tank, put the steering damper back on (torque to 3 N-m, 16.5 lb-ft, 2.3 kg-m) If you used silicon on the adulator holes I would recommend letting it dry for atleast 24 hours before riding.
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M4exhaust
The first thing you need to do is remove the right, left, and lower fairing. Next remove the 4 bolts that hold each exhaust can on. Next Remove the stock exhaust can brackets, be careful to hold the cans so they don't fall. Next remove the bolts that hold the lower radiator in place. This will allow you to push the lower rad a little forward to get the clearance you need to get the header pipe out. Now remove the bolts that hold the 2 pieces of the stock exhaust together.
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Now remove the 2 bolts that hold the front header on, then remove the bolt holding the rear header in place. Next remove the 2 bolts that hold the exhaust to the bike frame. The bolts have nuts on the other side that are held in place by a bracket. In my case the bracket bent and allowed the nut to spin. To stop the nut from spinning I inserted an allen key between the bolt and the bracket.
Once you get them out you should be a to take the exhaust off in 2 pieces. Make sure you don't hit the radiator with the front header pipe when removing it. Also be sure to grab the exhaust gasket from the front header. You should replace it with a new one, but if not atleast reuse the old one. Now its time to put the new exhaust on. Because of all the rumors I heard about m4 leaks I decided to put exhaust sealer on each of the joints.
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I connected the front and rear header piece together and loosely bolted them up to the bike. (Don't forget to put the front exhaust gasket in). Now put in the bolt on the right side of the bike the bolts the exhaust to the bike frame. With this bolt in place you can now tighten the front and rear headers. Attach the spring the holds the 2 front header pipes together. When mounting the cans I found it easier to put on the exhaust brackets if you first remove the passenger foot exhaust shields. First take the left and right mid pipes and put them in place (do not tighten). Next mount both exhaust cans and brackets (do not tighten). With everything mounted make sure both cans are lined up correctly. I measured to make sure both cans stuck out the same distance from the back of the biker, I also measured the distance between the cans and the rear fairing. Finally check to make sure both cans are at the same angle. Once everything is lined up tighten the can brackets, recheck alignment, and then tighten the mid pipe clamps. If you used exhaust sealer you must let it dry for 24 hours before starting the bike.
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Fairing Saver
First remove the left and right side fairings. Locate the rear engine mount bolt on the right side of the bike and remove it. Install the fairing saver adapters with the provided bolt. Now take the bolt that holds the fairing saver on and screw it into the adapter far enough to reinstall the right side fairing. Now you need to locate where the bolt meets the fairing , I did this by reaching behind the fairing and putting my finger next the the bolt, once you think you know where it is, take a small drill bit and drill a hole. Check to make sure the hole you drilled is in the center of the fairing saver bolt. If it is not as long as your within one inch of the bolt your okay. Just figure out which way you missed and redrill, keep repeating this process until you find the center of the bolt. You can see from the picture I missed several times. Repeat this process on the left side of the bike. This side is easier because you can remove the center fairing piece which gives you close access to the bolt.
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Once you find the dead center take a 2 inch hole drill bit and drill a hole in the fairing. Now take some high grit sand paper and smooth out he drill holes. Now you can reinstall the fairings, if the holes and the fairing savers don't line up perfectly you should be able to move the fairing saver adapter a little to make the fit perfect. Once it's lined up correctly torque down the adapter bolts to 67.5 lb-ft, 9.3 kg-m, 93 n*m. Then tighten the bolts that hold the fairing saver onto the adapter. (I did not get a chance to do this yet but once I do I put up some pictures.)
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PCII
Remove the seat and rear seat. Run the PCII plugs over the trunk plastic and under the rear seat sub frame. Discount the right hand side plug that hooks up to the computer. Plug in the PCII. To mount the PCII in the trunk I drilled 2 holes in the vertical piece of plastic the holds the tool bag in place, then I used 2 zip ties to hold it down. Make sure you mount the PCII so the serial port is facing upwards.
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You can get maps from dyno jet at:
The map I am using a mapcreated by TSR Performance 410-785-3100 in cockysville MD
- My Map It is set up to work with M4 full system, K&N air filter, air box mod, and TRE.
Dyno results:
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TRE
Remove the right side fairing. Next locate the plug next to the coolant reservoir, it is a white plug with 3 wires coming out of it. (Blue, pink and Black) Disconnect the plug and install the TRE. Zip tie the TRE in place, that's it your done.
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Sheild
I would hope you can figure out how to install a windshield, but if not hear goes. Remove the old windshield and install the new one.
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Carbon Parts
Want custom carbon fiber parts for you bike, check out CarbonFiberParts.net
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Wreck
A little old lady decided not to see us and make a left turn across our lane to get on an exit ramp. She hit us head on and sent my girlfriend flying over the car. She landed several feet behind the car in the street. I went right into her windshield. I am sure she saw me after that. We both managed to survive with non life threatening injuries. We both had on leather jackets and full face helmets. Even with the helmet you can see how badly cut my neck was from the windshield. Ride safe you never know when someone else isn't going to see you.
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