After the little old lady wrecked my 01 I picked up another TL1000R, this time it was a left over 03. I order to rebuild the wrecked 01 I had to borrow a few parts from the new 03. For the most part it was just pieces that I modified or throw out like the turn signals or rear fender. Most of the below how to's are from the write up's I did on the 01.
How to's
- Shave the rear fender/license plate holder thing
- LED Brake Light bar
- LED Turn signals
- Install Front Sprocket
- Install carbon hugger
- Air Box modification
- M4 exhaust install
- PCII installation + Map
- TRE installation
- Carbon Shield installation
- Fairing Saver installation
- Dyno results - yosh remap vs PCII map - - PCII Hp vs torque
- Carbon Fiber Parts
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Video and Sound Clips
Rear Removal
Here is what the stock rear looks like. That trailer hitch looking rear is the first thing you need to get rid of.
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The first step is to take a crayon and mark where you are going to cut. With the rear tail still on trace the bottom of the fairing. Next remove the entire rear of the bike and cut about .25 inches above the line you just made. I used and air saw to make the initial cut and then a air drum grinder to smooth it out. When your done you should have something that looks like this.
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I went back and laid carbon fiber over the inside of the mesh basket, so now it's on solid piece in the rear again. Did I need to do it no, but I have a huge box of left over carbon scrap so I though I would put some to good use. Only problem was now I couldn't mount the license plate light inside the tail anymore. My solution was to mount two LED's above the plate that would shine down on the plate. The bracket is made out of a piece of aluminum that I painted black. It is riveted into the carbon basket and the tail light housing. The LED's are blue and mounted in little chrome LED holders I got at radio shack. It turned out real nice and the new bracket holds the light better and straiter than the old bracket I had.
new mounting bracket with LED's
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old mounting bracket
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Led Brake Light bar
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Led Turn signals
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Front Sprocket install
Instead of changing out the rear sprocket like I did on the 01 I decided to change the front one instead. My goal was to lower the gearing so the bike would accelerate faster. The down side is you lower your top speed and screw up your speedo. To lower the gearing you can go with a front sprocket with 1 less tooth or a rear sprocket with more teeth. Going down 1 tooth in the front is about the same has going up 3 in the rear. On my 01 I went up 2 in the rear and it really made the bike more responsive off the line. I hope 1 down in the front is even better. I still have the rear sprocket off my 01 TLR so I may try the bike with the -1 tooth up front and the +2 tooth in the rear. I have a feeling that will be over kill, but it may be fun. The front sprocket was ordered from sprocketspecialists.com (part # 514
Tooth Size: 16)
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The install is pretty strait forward, no special tools needed. I did find when reassembling the bike it was easier to release the clutch pressure by opening the bleed screw. This mean you have to bleed the clutch and add some more fluid but that's not hard. I ended up removing the rear wheel to get slack in the chain so while it was off I went ahead and installed the rear sprocket also. Now in effect I have added 5 teeth. It still rides nice, front comes up nice and easy.
Hugger
Although the hugger on my 03 is different the install process is the same. In fact the carbon hugger was made using a mold of the hugger off the 01 so really it's the same exact hugger just carbon fiber instead of fiberglass.
The first thing you need to do is remove the stock chain guard and mud flap. The mud flap has 2 pieces only one is show in the picture.
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Now test fit the hugger. Move the hugger around until you get an even gap on both sides of the tire. The first hole I drilled was on the right side of the hugger. While holding the hugger in place mark where you are going to drill. I just eye balled it. You want to drill it pretty close to the vertical piece, but remember to leave enough room for the bolt head. Remove the hugger and drill a test hole with a 3/32 inch bit, this way you can be a little off on the first try. Reinstall the hugger and check the hole alignment. Remove the hugger and drill a 3/8 inch hole. Reinstall the hugger and put the brake line holder bolt back in. Now move the hugger around until the gap between the tire and hugger are equal on both sides. When you find this point mark the front hole on the chain guard.
With the hugger still on drill a hole with a 3/32 inch bit. If your lined up correctly drill a 3/8 inch hole. Place the included lock washer on the front chain guard bolt, then put the included flat washer on. You want the flat washer to be the one making contact with the hugger. Now install the front chain guard bolt. Do not tighten. Now you can move the rear of the hugger up and down a little bit to get the desired clearance between the hugger and tire. Mark the rear hole on the chain guard, I used a nail to scratch the hugger from the back side. Remove the hugger and drill a hole with a 3/32 inch bit. Reinstall the hugger and check your hole for alignment, if your lined up correctly remove the hugger and drill a 3/8 inch hole. Reinstall the hugger. If you want you can take the lower portion of the mud guard that you removed and cut it so it can be reinstalled on the bike.
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I just guessed on the cut, you can't really see it on the bike so it doesn't have to be perfect. You may not need to cut it at all, I would see if it fits with out cutting first. Rebolt up the mud guard and your done. If the hugger rubs the tire your holes may need some adjusting. Another adjustment is to slightly bend the brake bracket towards or away from the tire.
***Updates ***
Air Box
This is the write up I did for my 01 TLR but I used the exact same process on my 03. Only difference is instead of using metal plates to fill the holes I just left the actuators in place.
First remove the seat, upper, and lower fairing's. Then remove the steering damper. There is a small cap on top of the allen bolt that holds the steering damper. in place, you can pry it off with a flat head screw driver. Now lift up the gas tank and hold it up with the tank stand. Next Remove the 6 screws that hold on the air box lid. Trace the 2 vacuum lines that go to the actuators back the plastic T and undo them. Next remove the air box lid. Now take a piece of silicon hose (you could use a small section of the stock tubing) and connect it to the T creating a loop.
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Now remove the 5 screws that hold the air filter in place. Now remove the 9 screws that hold the base plate in place. With the base plate out, cut along the yellow lines. I used a dremel tool with a cutting disk to make the initial cuts. Then I used a drum sander to smooth out the cut. When cutting be sure not to cut off the 2 screw holders or damage the channel that runs along the bottom of the base plate to seal it to the air box.
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Now take the air box lid and remove the actuators by first disconnecting the metal bars from the flappers, then twisting them. You can also remove the flappers themselves on the inside by prying off the caps on one side and sliding out the flapper piece. To seal the hole left by the actuators I used to squares of stainless steal I had laying around from a fog light kit. I put a line of black silicon sealant down around the actuator hole and then pop riveted the metal plates into place.
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To make sure the box was sealed totally I covered the entire plate inside and out with silicon.
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Next reinstall the air filter base plate (9 screws). Then put the air filter back in, at this point I replaced mine with a K & N filter. Put the 5 filter bolts in place. Next put the air box lid back on and securely fasten the 6 screws. Now you can lower the tank, put the steering damper back on (torque to 3 N-m, 16.5 lb-ft, 2.3 kg-m) If you used silicon on the adulator holes I would recommend letting it dry for at least 24 hours before riding.
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M4exhaust
This is the write up I did for my 01 TLR but I used the exact same process on my 03. The M4 system sounded great on my 01 so of course I purchased a set for the 03.
The first thing you need to do is remove the right, left, and lower fairing. Next remove the 4 bolts that hold each exhaust can on. Next Remove the stock exhaust can brackets, be careful to hold the cans so they don't fall. Next remove the bolts that hold the lower radiator in place. This will allow you to push the lower rad a little forward to get the clearance you need to get the header pipe out. Now remove the bolts that hold the 2 pieces of the stock exhaust together.
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Now remove the 2 bolts that hold the front header on, then remove the bolt holding the rear header in place. Next remove the 2 bolts that hold the exhaust to the bike frame. The bolts have nuts on the other side that are held in place by a bracket. In my case the bracket bent and allowed the nut to spin. To stop the nut from spinning I inserted an allen key between the bolt and the bracket.
Once you get them out you should be a to take the exhaust off in 2 pieces. Make sure you don't hit the radiator with the front header pipe when removing it. Also be sure to grab the exhaust gasket from the front header. You should replace it with a new one, but if not at least reuse the old one. Now its time to put the new exhaust on. Because of all the rumors I heard about m4 leaks I decided to put exhaust sealer on each of the joints.
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I connected the front and rear header piece together and loosely bolted them up to the bike. (Don't forget to put the front exhaust gasket in). Now put in the bolt on the right side of the bike the bolts the exhaust to the bike frame. With this bolt in place you can now tighten the front and rear headers. Attach the spring the holds the 2 front header pipes together. When mounting the cans I found it easier to put on the exhaust brackets if you first remove the passenger foot exhaust shields. First take the left and right mid pipes and put them in place (do not tighten). Next mount both exhaust cans and brackets (do not tighten). With everything mounted make sure both cans are lined up correctly. I measured to make sure both cans stuck out the same distance from the back of the biker, I also measured the distance between the cans and the rear fairing. Finally check to make sure both cans are at the same angle. Once everything is lined up tighten the can brackets, recheck alignment, and then tighten the mid pipe clamps. If you used exhaust sealer you must let it dry for 24 hours before starting the bike.
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***Updates ***
I pretty much used the same process has above, only difference is I added some heat shielding to the belly pan to help keep it from melting. It probably won't help but we will see. Here are the new pictures.)
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Fairing Saver
Here again this is the write up from the 01 bike, but I used the same process for the 03. In fact the sliders are from the 01.
First remove the left and right side fairing's. Locate the rear engine mount bolt on the right side of the bike and remove it. Install the fairing saver adapters with the provided bolt. Now take the bolt that holds the fairing saver on and screw it into the adapter far enough to reinstall the right side fairing. Now you need to locate where the bolt meets the fairing , I did this by reaching behind the fairing and putting my finger next the the bolt, once you think you know where it is, take a small drill bit and drill a hole. Check to make sure the hole you drilled is in the center of the fairing saver bolt. If it is not as long as your within one inch of the bolt your okay. Just figure out which way you missed and re drill, keep repeating this process until you find the center of the bolt. You can see from the picture I missed several times. Repeat this process on the left side of the bike. This side is easier because you can remove the center fairing piece which gives you close access to the bolt.
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Once you find the dead center take a 2 inch hole drill bit and drill a hole in the fairing. Now take some high grit sand paper and smooth out he drill holes. Now you can reinstall the fairing's, if the holes and the fairing savers don't line up perfectly you should be able to move the fairing saver adapter a little to make the fit perfect. Once it's lined up correctly torque down the adapter bolts to 67.5 lb-ft, 9.3 kg-m, 93 n*m. Then tighten the bolts that hold the fairing saver onto the adapter. (I did not get a chance to do this yet but once I do I put up some pictures.)
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***Updates ***
PCII
No surprise here the write up is from the 01, I used the same computer from my 01 in the 03 TLR.
Remove the seat and rear seat. Run the PCII plugs over the trunk plastic and under the rear seat sub frame. Discount the right hand side plug that hooks up to the computer. Plug in the PCII. To mount the PCII in the trunk I drilled 2 holes in the vertical piece of plastic the holds the tool bag in place, then I used 2 zip ties to hold it down. Make sure you mount the PCII so the serial port is facing upwards.
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You can get maps from dyno jet at:
The map I am using a map created by TSR Performance 410-785-3100 in cockysville MD
- My Map It is set up to work with M4 full system, K&N air filter, air box mod, and TRE. This is the map I used in my 01 TLR, I will probably be using the same map in the 03. I will at least use it has a starting point until I can get some dyno time.
***Updates ***
I installed the PCII over the weekend and loaded the map from my old TLR, it works but is back firering allot when you close the throttle. I'll probably take it in for some dyno tuning.Turns out the backfirering was from an exhaust leak on the front header. I fixed that problem and took the bike in for a dyno pull. Just as I suspected the old map was not working on the new bike, power output was around 115hp. More importantly the air/fuel ratio was not right. After the remapp we where back up to 122 hp. I'll post the new map + dyno sheet soon.
New Dyno results:
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TRE
No surprise here the write up is from the 01, I used the same TRE from my 01 in the 03 TLR.
TRE (timing retard eliminator) Suzuki designed the bike's computer to retard the timing in gears 1-5 which effectively removes horse power. I believe they did it for gas mileage or emissions. Anyway, this simple mod eliminates the retard by making your bikes computer think it's in 6 gear all the time. To install remove the right side fairing. Next locate the plug next to the coolant reservoir, it is a white plug with 3 wires coming out of it. (Blue, pink and Black) Disconnect the plug and install the TRE. Zip tie the TRE in place, that's it your done.
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Shield
I would hope you can figure out how to install a windshield, but if not hear goes. Remove the old windshield and install the new one. Nothing new here same great humor, just a different screen. This screen was made by my me using a zero gravity screen to make the mold out of.
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Carbon Parts
Want custom carbon fiber parts for you bike, check out CarbonFiberParts.net